Very similar to how GM vehicles disc brakes have been done for years.
Jack up the vehicle, block it up for safety sake.
Remove the wheel that you intend to replace the pads on. Remove the 2 bolts on the backside of the caliper mount. (They should be approximately 12mm head) You may need to us a channel lock pliars or a locking pliars (vise grip) to hold the female threaded section that the bolt threads into to keep it from spinning during counter clockwise removal of the bolt. The female threaded section is the first thing on the other side of the bracket from the bolt you are trying to remove, be careful to not damage the rubber seal that covers the female threaded section.
Once the 2 bolts are removed, remove the caliper from the rotor.
Slide the bottom of the brake pads out the side and then away from the rotor, one at a time.
The easiest way to reassemble is to have purchased a caliper reset tool. These are inexpensive and well worth every penny. The caliper reset tool will allow you to push the pucks back into the caliper to allow you to install the new pads without opening up the master cylinder cover. Note: before you start compressing the caliper pucks; make sure the opposite caliper is placed onto the brake disc, this will keep the pucks on the other side from popping out during compression of the caliper you're working on. Once the caliper pucks are reset back into the caliper; relieve the pressure from the caliper tool and remove it. Slide the new pads into the rotor assembly. Before reassembly verify the caliper thickness/surfaces are acceptable. Replace or resurface rotors as appropriate. Assemble the new pads top first; the opposite way they were removed. Reverse order of disassembly for remainder of reassembly. Repeat for however many wheels are required; in front/front or rear /rear sets. After completion of reassembly of wheels; bleeding neccessity should be verified/disproven. Once bleeding is completed for one front/front or rear/rear set; if required, complete the other one.

Very similar to how GM vehicles disc brakes have been done for years.
Jack up the vehicle, block it up for safety sake.
Remove the wheel that you intend to replace the pads on. Remove the 2 bolts on the backside of the caliper mount. (They should be approximately 12mm head) You may need to us a channel lock pliars or a locking pliars (vise grip) to hold the female threaded section that the bolt threads into to keep it from spinning during counter clockwise removal of the bolt. The female threaded section is the first thing on the other side of the bracket from the bolt you are trying to remove, be careful to not damage the rubber seal that covers the female threaded section.
Once the 2 bolts are removed, remove the caliper from the rotor.
Slide the bottom of the brake pads out the side and then away from the rotor, one at a time.
The easiest way to reassemble is to have purchased a caliper reset tool. These are inexpensive and well worth every penny. The caliper reset tool will allow you to push the pucks back into the caliper to allow you to install the new pads without opening up the master cylinder cover. Note: before you start compressing the caliper pucks; make sure the opposite caliper is placed onto the brake disc, this will keep the pucks on the other side from popping out during compression of the caliper you're working on. Once the caliper pucks are reset back into the caliper; relieve the pressure from the caliper tool and remove it. Slide the new pads into the rotor assembly. Before reassembly verify the caliper thickness/surfaces are acceptable. Replace or resurface rotors as appropriate. Assemble the new pads top first; the opposite way they were removed. Reverse order of disassembly for remainder of reassembly. Repeat for however many wheels are required; in front/front or rear /rear sets. After completion of reassembly of wheels; bleeding neccessity should be verified/disproven. Once bleeding is completed for one front/front or rear/rear set; if required, complete the other one.

Reset tool (at least the one I found) works great for all 4 wheels. The one I have is actually designed for single puck calipers. I used a machinist parallel in front of the pressure disk to enable me to compress the dual pucks at the same rate on the Avalanche without concern for damage.

The tool I used is simplicity in itself. I found one at www.brandsplace.com
It is a Lisle brake pad spreader. Item 0246-lis24400 and it sells for $15.95.

How do you replace the caliper?